DawgTalkers.net Forums DawgTalk Everything Else... Router Bits

I am looking for some advice. I have switched some of my emphasis on woodworking from artistic pieces to cabinetry. Recently, I have made an ottoman, entertainment center, and outdoor, poolside storage box.

So, for Father's Day, I received a Bosh RA1181 router table:


and a Bosh 2.25 router:

My question is about bits. I have been doing some research and I am a bit confused. Should I get a combination of 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch bits? Which brands are the best? Do I really need a 13 piece set? How about a 6 piece set? Or, should I buy them individually?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Many millions of years ago, when I had my deck built, I bought a router and I bought a kit that had something like 16 bits in it. It was good, because I got to actually see what each cut looked like, much better than just by looking at the package info.

It was worth it.

I had planned to build doors for my kitchen cupboards ... but that fell by the wayside when my back went.

It's good that you got the table, for me it made the longer edges easier to make nice and even.

I think I got the 1/4" .... but it's been a while.

I bought a router form Linksys, it won’t do any of that.

Depends on what you want to do really. Just look at the bit profiles for the shape you are after or think you might need and get the set that best meets those needs.

When I get started I just watched the auctions and got lucky with bits. I bought a cabinet clean out lot that had boxes with a few hundred bits, most new. I think I paid like $20 for the lot.

Wow! What a deal!!!

And thanks, guys.

I was just watching some videos, and I thought this one was pretty good. This dude had some good tips when I was applying hinges to some of my other projects. So, I kinda trust him.

My dad talked about his Foestener bit for about a month. You should probably get one.

No, I have no idea what it did.

Shank sizes aren't really that important for light usage. Bottom line is that the bigger shanks will be more stable and offer more precise cutting though.

I've found that the biggest thing about cheap bits is that they don't last as long and are quicker to "burn" wood if you're doing a large project. I don't buy cheap or expensive ones - I tend to stay right in the middle. Reading some reviews on Amazon will help.

If you don't have more than a handful, I would buy a nice set. Watch the ads for Home Depot, etc for a few weeks, they're always on sale and you save a ton of money over buying individual bits. You'll be happy you have the set when you're doing something and see a profile that is exactly what fits the look style you're looking for. You'll say "glad I bought that set".

Here's a real good read from one of the authorities in the biz:

https://www.rockler.com/learn/beginners-guide-to-choosing-router-bits


PS... Erik - you're talking about a Forstner bit. It's actually a drill bit that drills very precise circles with flat bottoms and no "tear out".

Good info. Thank you.

Dad had a gravely voice.

I will say when I first was the title of this thread, it reminded me of a cisco router I chucked off a building because it had strange problems.

So, I'm a bit into woodworking these days, too, and I'll echo what FATE said.

Shank size relates to strength and durability, but also bit size. You aren't likely to get a 1/16" round-over bit that has a 1/2" shank, and you definitely wouldn't want to try using a 3-1/4" panel undercutter bit with a 1/4" shank. It's about the amount of power and torque the router can transfer to the cutting edges as much as basic dimensions. I think you'll find that over time you will end up with a collection of both. I think you will also find that you end up with more than one router (I now have three (large plunge, small trim, and table), lol)

As for sets.... I would absolutely look for an affordable set. Those sets will have all of your more commonly used bits in various sizes (chamfer, ogee, round-over, rabbet, cove, flush trim, - 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, etc...). This is how & why you want things like a 66-bit set... it has more of the common types you need in more of the common sizes you need. This will be your go-to. Buy the largest set you can afford, then fill gaps & future needs with one-off purchases as projects demand (bull nose bits, moulding profiles, picture frame profiles, etc...). If your router accepts both 1/4" and 1/2" shanks, then I would get the set in 1/2" simply because they will hold up longer. Conversely, should you get a trim router later, then all 1/4" shank bits you buy will fit in that; that's a decent argument for getting 1/4". 1/4" shank sets will also have the smaller round-overs and other things, but they are also likely to lack the larger ones that can be pushed by a 1/2" shank. It's a trade-off.

When in doubt, buy carbide tipped. Always. Unless you just can't afford the extra. Then, find a way to spend the extra couple of dollars. They will cut faster, cleaner, less chip-out, less burning of the wood, and will hold their edge a LOT longer than high speed steel. Dull bits burn the wood which means lots of hand sanding to try to remove the burn marks while trying to not screw up the nice, pretty profile you just put into the wood.

My go-to source for most all bits is MLCS Woodworking, though I've bought some Chinesium Yonico bits from Amazon (a dovetail set).
I've found all of their bits to be of really good quality, and I have easily $500 worth of their stuff to judge from. They are in Pennsylvania and their stuff always ships quickly and arrives within days.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com

This page lists all of their bit categories (make sure you buy router bits, not shaper bits):
https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routerbit.html

That's a pretty solid video, and most of his selections are my most common as well. I have the same Freud rabbeting set with the interchangeable bearings. It is probably the single most used bit in my shop followed by my 1/4" shank chamfer bit (in lieu of his round over).

FYI: For those in the central ohio area, I have saved a fortune buying my tools at auction. The tools don't care if they are used or if you didn't pay full price. Here are the two auctions and an auction locator site that I like to use. The two auctions are online:


https://www.auctionohio.com/

https://www.capitalcityonlineauction.com/

Auction locator site, no matter where you are located.

https://www.auctionzip.com/

Just read and understand the descriptions before bidding. Buy smart.

Thanks! Found a tabletop vise that will look great on my workbench.

Thanks guys. Some excellent advice. I have been researching each time I sit down to eat and at night when I am not working. The advice you guys are providing is matching up w/what I have discovered, thus far. Plus, I love the links. Good stuff.

This morning, I was fairly sure I was going to purchase this set at some point today. But, after reading more of your posts, I'm not so sure.

Any advice on whether this would be a good set to start off with?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002...5d-b31d6b1bfbee

Although I love Freud bits (and Dado sets), for that price point I would seriously look at the 66-bit set from MLCS instead. I think you will get a MUCH larger bang for your buck... you only need to decide if you want the 1/2" shank or 1/4" shank version of the set.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/set66.html

I second that. That's a great set that will cover almost anything you want to do... and they're high quality bits. When you get to the point where you actually have to replace one, I doubt you'll say to yourself (nor is there much evidence to suggest) "Man, I wish I would have bought that Freud set instead".

With that said, I'm certainly no router bit aficionado. Besides the variety, the main considerations are how much money you have to spend and what current projects dictate as far as heavy usage.

Conversely, if you have a specific project in mind, maybe just start with just the bit(s) you need to get going on that.

If the money for the large set isn't an issue, though, they're nice to have because then you have them to play and experiment with. The only reason I don't have one of those sets, yet, is because when I bought my first router table, I got it, the motor, and a cigar box full of bits for $50 from a guy on Craigslist. He had enough of the basics in there to tide me over, so most of my money went into specialty bits (I made all of the baseboards for my 2nd floor and customized new stair treads, etc...)

I was looking at the very set after you provided the earlier link. Seems like a great deal. I was hoping that they would have a combination of 1/4" and 1/2 inch, but it is either all one or the other.

I might get the 1/2" and then fill in w/some 1/4" individual bits that I think I will use more often than others. I'm still deciding, so I'm all ears for awhile.

Also, additional brands that are pretty good:

Bosch - basically, everything Bosch in woodworking is pretty damn good.
Yoniko - solid budget brand (I have a set of their dovetails)
Whiteside - good, solid tooling (I have a spoilboard bit from them that I use to level slabs)

but, MLCS is my Go-To when I'm looking for something special. Just browse all of their different offerings, especially their Triple Wing and Katana series, and you'll understand why... if they don't have it, it probably doesn't exist, lol!

You could get the 1/2" and then add on the 1/4" 15-piece set.
Or, just get the 15-piece in 1/2 and 1/4.... OR... just get the one set and then use it and see what you find you wish you had in the other shank size.

My bet is that since you only have the one router right now, and it accepts both size shanks, you likely won't miss the one over the other all that much except in rare cases (e.g. if you for some reason needed a 1/16" roundover and just couldn't make do with a 1/8" roundover).

I think you'll find that whichever one you select, you will find it to be well more than what you need and the times that you'll need to worry about swapping out collets to change shank sizes is nearly non-existent.

Basically, the only times I've worried about needing/wanting a bit in 1/4" shank has been since I got my trim router which only accepts 1/4".

Prior to that, it was a complete non-issue for me.
of course, now I have bits for the trim router than I wish I could put in my table, but I only have a 1/2" collet for the table motor, lol... so, I'm actually in the boat of needing to order a new collet.

Thanks for the help. I purchased the set you recommended w/the 1/2" shank. Takes 7-10 business days for delivery. I'm excited. I do have an old 5 pack of bits for a used router I purchased for $25 decades ago. I'll start practicing w/those while I wait for the new set. This is all pretty exciting. So many cool things can be done.

Unless you are going to be an everyday user, a larger no name set will be better.

I don't like sets, I always end up with bits I don't use.

The good bits like Whiteside cut better and last longer in my experience.

I ended up buying a set, but my initial thought was to not buy a set because they would include bits that I would never use.

I don't know. I'm a novice. Still trying to figure it out. I really do appreciate all the comments, though.

Happy you're joining "router bits anonymous" with some of your fellow fans.

I have bought individual moulding profile bits I've never used, so I don't see the problem, lol!

I bought a kit, got about half way done with my project .... and broke the bit. So I had to replace the one bit I was using. lol

I didn't want to start another thread, but does anyone have any advice on the best crosscutting sleds for table saws? I typically don't do cross cutting on my table saw, but I have an upcoming job where I need to use it. I'm not too worried about the mitering aspect. I'm more concerned w/safely making cross cuts on my table saw.

Make one.

Whether you buy one or make one, you'll need to go through the 5-cut method to square the back fence, so you may as well make one. One piece of plywood or MDF and a few cut-offs for your front and rear and you're done. T-slot guides can be ripped from small stock or just order some aluminum ones from Rockler or Woodcraft or Amazon.

There are a ton of videos on YouTube on different ideas for sleds and how to properly do the 5-cut thing to adjust.

Build in all the features you want... adjustable stops, slots for inserting spacer blocks for box/finger joints, tape measure, etc...

5-Cut method



A fancy sled


A super simple, basic sled




Jonathan Katz-Moses



Matthew Cremona

Thanks. I've watched that first video recently.

I've been busy lately and I was hoping not to have to take time out to make one, but it's looking like that's not a reality.

Thanks again.

It really doesn't take long at all.
If you have materials and a table saw, then you just need about an hour or so to make one. It really is a fast process.


If you just want to buy something, then I'd look at either Kreg or Incra.
You absolutely cannot go wrong with either one.

I own a Kreg Precision Miter Gauge System (KMS-7102) and I have used it for several crosscut operations - most recently cutting tenons on some table legs with my dado set. It has a fence and stops with a measuring tape. I've found it to be pretty solid and accurate and repeatable.

The Incra sleds are REALLY nice, but also REALLY expensive. They'd be nice to have, but you can build all of that functionality for a third of the cost and just a little time.

I looked at both of those brands. Also, one by Rockler.

Thanks for advice. I'm good w/making one if it only takes about an hour.

I made a cross cut sled (and a ripping jig) very similar to that. I did buy some synthetic runners from Rockler. I just haven't gotten into woodworking since my son became old enough for sports (15+ yrs). I have a nice Grizzly tablesaw, a floor standing drill press, a delta router/shaper (that kind of sucks....not enough power for real hardwoods). I built a really nice woodworking bench complete with bench vices. It's all just sitting in the basement unused. The last thing I remember being into was playing around with a biscuit joiner and pipe clamps to make some table tops.