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#853024 02/17/14 05:42 PM
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I'm looking to buy a car in the near future and haven't owned a car since 2008. I'm probably going to go the used route and will pay cash (hate the idea of paying interest on something that's losing me money). What are some of the key things to look for when buying a used car, esp if I'm not going to purchase from a dealer? Figured craigslist and Auto trader are good places to start, any other suggestions?

Thanks!


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well, there's a few things. first off, the amount of cash you plan on spending. even used, i'm not sure what you plan on buying that you expect to be in good condition unless you're talking 12 G's +.

next, you need to look to see if the car has a warranty, how many miles, and what year. remember, i think the national average miles a person puts on a vehicle is 15-20k. the is some truth to the city vs highway miles standard, but its still miles put on the car. period.

you need to look at the services as well. whether or not the previous owner(s) got services done buy the brand specific dealer or by Joe mechanic down the street.

look to see if the paint is chipped. make sure you car fax the vehicle to check to see if it has been in any accidents. you can dropped the end price on that car significantly if thats the case, but depending on how bad it was, you might want to steer clear of it.

you need to look into the condition of the interior. cars that had smoking owners will drop the price, as well as any damage to the leather/cloth.


there's a lot of different tips people will give you bro. just remember this:

don't ever by a car just because it has a good price. i mean some people say they want a car to just get them to A and B, but you never wanna buy a Ford Mustang, then be driving, see a Camero and say to yourself "damn i should've bought a Camero".

you're gonna be married to that car for a few years, whether or not you buy or finance. you wanna make sure you buy a car you want to drive, that you feel good driving, and that you think you look good driving in.


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I could offer some good advice - but it would be easier if I knew what you were looking at as far as vehicle. Well, maybe not easier - but more direct, and beneficial.

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I'm not 100% sure as I'm not a car guy. If you have vehicle advise I'd welcome some. Early on, I'm looking at subaru hatchback or a Mazda 6. I prefer a manual with under 80k miles. I'd prefer a subaru but even used they can be a bit pricey which is why I started looking at a mazda 6. I like the AWD, great gas mileage, and reliability with Subaru.


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We've been buying returned lease SUV's.
12-18k mileage one or two years old at less than 3/4 the price of new! Nearly full warranty too!

Local dealer specializes in them. Maybe someone in your area will.

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First and foremost, DON'T TRUST THE DEALER! Don't trust the salesmen, don't trust anyone and I'm serious. They're not there for you, they're there for themselves. If you do infact go the Auto Trader or Craigslist route, then don't trust the seller! Trust is fragile.

Car Fax reports are great. For example, I fell in love with this Subaru and did the Car Fax to find out it was a lease car. People don't treat lease/rental cars very nicely, so I knew to avoid that purchase.

Check the oil. Smell it. If it smells like gasoline, is a dirty black color and smells like burned metal and etc - I'd recommend ya pass on it. You should know what used, new oil and used oil that has indicators of something internal going on. Example, if you smell gas, save to say the pistons rings and/or valve stems are shot.

Fire it up with the hood open. Listen for knocks and noises that aren't normal.

Stand behind it and tell whomever to rev it up a few times. if there is a dark black cloud coming from the back of the exhaust, safe to assume some head work (expensive) will need done to replace the failed seals. If there is a large white cloud of smoke, then safe to assume the piston rings are fried and motor oil is being burnt.

best advice is though, don't freaking trust anyone.

As for Mazada or Subaru, I bought my first Subaru (brnad new off the lot 2012 WRX) last september and I will tell you... Subarus are GREAT. Safety test ratings are good. AWD is probably the best since Subaru really pushed for AWD (the symertical all wheel drive to be exact) and the best part is, and as you've noticed - they retain their value through the years very well. Kelly Blue Book values remain high on these Subarus, even as miles pack on and years increase.

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Just do your homework. Carfaxes are a good way to go, but they don't tell everything. I bought a used mustang 3 years ago, paint job looked fantastic, only to find out it was repainted, and the previous owner had customized the lights, and alarm system. a year later, I had no lights at all, and had to have the dealer re-install the factory wiring. Cost me over a grand, even though I bought the extended warranty.

Alpoe19 #853031 02/17/14 07:50 PM
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j/c

I know a friend who had a late model SUV. His wife had hit a fence with it and the vehicle had been stolen and wrecked pretty badly. He traded in the vehicle. Both accidents went through insurance claims.

I called to inquire on the asking price of the vehicle. they quoted me a price and informed me the vehicle had a clean Car Fax record as well.

I'm not so sure I trust a Car Fax check because of that. Not sure what exactly does and does not get reported to them.


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Answer to all questions:

Buy a used Subaru WRX.

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Quote:

First and foremost, DON'T TRUST THE DEALER! Don't trust the salesmen, don't trust anyone and I'm serious. They're not there for you, they're there for themselves.



completely agree. It's amazing how many people go into a dealership without doing any price research and get sweet talked into a crappy deal. I see it with my friends all the time.

Do your research. Come up with a price that you want to pay for a specific model with specific features and don't budge from that. If they don't meet it, go to another dealership.

If 3 dealers all tell you that you're crazy, you probably went a little low.

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To add to that, the last time I bought a car, I only went to a dealership to test drive. I did my negotiating through phone and e-mail with different salesmen and basically said, this is what I want, this is my offer, can you beat it? And I got it down to a price I was very happy with.

Admittedly it is more complicated with used cars, which is probably why dealerships want them so bad. More uncertainty = more room for them to hustle you.

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j/c

I know a friend who had a late model SUV. His wife had hit a fence with it and the vehicle had been stolen and wrecked pretty badly. He traded in the vehicle. Both accidents went through insurance claims.

I called to inquire on the asking price of the vehicle. they quoted me a price and informed me the vehicle had a clean Car Fax record as well.

I'm not so sure I trust a Car Fax check because of that. Not sure what exactly does and does not get reported to them.




I so wanted to say something about carfax.........but I didn't.

Here's the scoop on them: They get their info from title bureaus, license departments, (all with public records searches) and from reporting insurance companies.

As far as a used car carfax report - I'd trust it as far as I could throw it. If you know how to evaluate a car - carfax won't help you. If you don't know, carfax MIGHT help you..

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Check your PM's bro


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Yes, check your PM's.

I didn't send you one but can vouch for GM who apparently did. He's a load of help. Been in the business a long time. He sold Fred Flintstone his first car. LOL


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Quote:

. People don't treat lease/rental cars very nicely, so I knew to avoid that purchase.






Not entirely true, people with leases do have to return them, and get charged for any extensive damage or wear and tear. My wife likes a new vehicle every 3 years, so we lease hers, and I can tell you they are damn near in brand new condition minus milage (10-12k a year) when we turn them in.


On the "Professional Services" in a post above yours. Not all service needs to be done professionally, anyone can change oil, flush a radiator, change spark plugs, etc, it all depends on what tools you have, patience you have and willingness to learn. I have maintained my Mustang since I day one, synthetic oil, quality filters (oil and fuel), plugs and radiator flush at 50k, brakes long before they squeal, tire rotations, alignments (by professionals).

A well maintained car by a shade-tree mechanics is 10x better than a professionally worked on car when the owner can't stand to see the dummy light on the dashboard anymore.

My light goes on, my code checker comes out, it gets solved immediately, not "when I get around to it", or "it seems to be running fine, no reason to pay attention to the 50 flashing lights on my dashboard".

As was stated by another poster, knowing how to evaluate the car means way more than any service records, car fax, or visual appearance. If you're not sure, take a friend who is a car guy/girl with you. 2 sets of eyes and a non-invested buyer is always helpful in seeing things you may not alone.


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Dawg_LB #853039 02/18/14 09:58 AM
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if there is a dark black cloud coming from the back of the exhaust, safe to assume some head work (expensive) will need done to replace the failed seals. If there is a large white cloud of smoke, then safe to assume the piston rings are fried and motor oil is being burnt




Not to nick pick, but Blue smoke is what it looks like with worn rings and white smoke is usually a blown head gasket. Hope that helps.


Dawginit since Jan. 24, 2000 Member #180
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You have to be real careful buying from a private owner. Once you've bought it...it's yours. Most people that sell their cars offer no warrenty. If you know a good gm man, then take him with you. I bought a Audi 5000 back in the early 90's from a guy that would only meet me at a old farm house that he picked out and for cash only. Turns out his wife wanted a divorice and he was getting even by selling her car for peanuts. I bought it. It was a nice car, but I got lucky. Take time to check it out and do your homework.


Dawginit since Jan. 24, 2000 Member #180
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A very wise man once explained to me that don't get a pre-conceived notion in your head as to what kinda car you want (chevy, ford, etc) Look for the best car for the money you can afford to buy.

If you don't know cars (even if you do), then always ask for two things: 1. Carfax and 2. Can I take it to my mechanic. This is assuming you have a mechanic you trust.

If they won't give a carfax, walk away, if they won't let you take the car or bring the car to your mechanic, walk away.

There are a lot of cars on lots today..

FYI, I try to buy from private sellers when possible (but that's only sports type toy cars.. not my Daily Driver, (those I buy new)

Having said that, some places give pretty decent warrenties on used cars, that's always an option.

that's pretty basic, but a good place to start.


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Daman, have you ever bought a car from a private owner that really had a warrenty of any kind? Maybe they tell you that if it blows up in a week or so you can bring it back?


Dawginit since Jan. 24, 2000 Member #180
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It's mostly true. Keep in mind running an engine hard, causing the transmission to work - aren't really signs that can be seen unless you tear out the engine and break it apart and have a look inside. Trust me, I worked for a company that leased and rented lots of vehicles and noone treated them nicely, including myself. Not everyone is like your wife and etc where they lease em' out and return them in equal shape, that's for sure! Especially if the car is used as a company car or sorts. JMO tho' and besides, I'd rather have a car weith 50k miles of easy driving and etc than a car with 10k miles of being rode hard and hung wet.

Quote:

Quote:

if there is a dark black cloud coming from the back of the exhaust, safe to assume some head work (expensive) will need done to replace the failed seals. If there is a large white cloud of smoke, then safe to assume the piston rings are fried and motor oil is being burnt




Not to nick pick, but Blue smoke is what it looks like with worn rings and white smoke is usually a blown head gasket. Hope that helps.




White smoke can be antifreeze but generally is oil leaking it's way into the exhaust ports via a bad seal in the head. Black smoke is also the same situation, but gas is leaked through the combustion chamber and into the oil via a bad ring on the piston, or pistons. This is a main cause of why some of the older cars, you turn off but it continues to run or "diesel", it's cause the gas that was mixed with the oil is still combusting and causing the engine to turn over, even if the key is off. Just saying

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Agree'd, but my point was that, just because it was a lease, doesn't mean it was mistreated. Just like because it wasn't taked to a professional for regular service, doesn't mean it wasn't maintained.

Basically, it goes back to the poster who said "know how to evaluate a car, or take someone who does."

Also, I wonder what the definition of "Running a car hard" really means. I stomp on my gas pedal alot, I have power I like to feel it, I take corners fast to see if I can hit that point where the rear end almost breaks but doesn't. Does that mean I'm driving it hard? By most people's definition probably, but my car get serviced, lubed, maintained with vigilance, and has given me 91000 trouble free miles to date and shows no signs of trouble.

I don't even have oil/grease on or around my engine, like I have seen in some cars with 1/4 of my milage. It really comes down to maintenence and care. One of the first things I notice when I get into someones car is its condition, you can tell alot of how they treat thier property by how thier car looks. Same goes for their home.


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Also, I wonder what the definition of "Running a car hard" really means. I stomp on my gas pedal alot, I have power I like to feel it, I take corners fast to see if I can hit that point where the rear end almost breaks but doesn't. Does that mean I'm driving it hard?




Yeah, that's running it hard. Engine rapidly accelerating puts stress on the components, especially the transmission and especially in the city where it's stop-n-go. Very hard on a motor. Not to mention people are less likely to avoid potholes and etc to make sure they're not hurting the car. Mainly focusing towards company cars.

But I agree, definitely not every lease car was abused or anything. But, the risk is obviously higher. With that said, buying a privately owned, non-rental/lease car poses the same risks and cautions too. But that's the name of the game when you buy anything used.

Resorts to me first comments, don't trust anyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Daman, have you ever bought a car from a private owner that really had a warrenty of any kind? Maybe they tell you that if it blows up in a week or so you can bring it back?




No I haven't why would you ask me that?


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Damanshot #853047 02/18/14 01:08 PM
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I just thought some of your comments sounded like you should check out the warrenty. If the guy is buying private, I doubt if there is a warrenty. Just wanted to be clear. No harm no foul


Dawginit since Jan. 24, 2000 Member #180
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I just thought some of your comments sounded like you should check out the warrenty. If the guy is buying private, I doubt if there is a warrenty. Just wanted to be clear. No harm no foul




LOL, I'm still confused.. But perhaps I can explain.

I prefer to buy used cars from private sellers. I still get the carfax and I still want my mechanic to go over it from front to back, side to side. But I'd never expect any warranty from a private seller.

When I refered to warranties, I was referring to used car dealers, or the used car section of a new car dealer. They will almost always offer some kinda limited warranty..

Does that clear it up for you,,,


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Ahh, yes it does. Thanks


Dawginit since Jan. 24, 2000 Member #180
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Ahh, yes it does. Thanks




You are welcome.....


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If the guy is buying private, I doubt if there is a warrenty. Just wanted to be clear. No harm no foul




Always ask the seller if there is any extended warranty in effect on the car when you buy it. Most warranties can be transfered from the owner to the buyer for a $35 fee. I have sold several of my cars to people when they still had a year of bumper to bumper coverage left on the extended warranty.


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Thats nice to know, wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks


Dawginit since Jan. 24, 2000 Member #180
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Quote:

Quote:

If the guy is buying private, I doubt if there is a warrenty. Just wanted to be clear. No harm no foul




Always ask the seller if there is any extended warranty in effect on the car when you buy it. Most warranties can be transfered from the owner to the buyer for a $35 fee. I have sold several of my cars to people when they still had a year of bumper to bumper coverage left on the extended warranty.




Ahh yes, I had forgotten about that possibility...


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