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This part I have to disagree with 100 percent. Heck I sell the warranty, and I won't buy a car for myself WITHOUT one. I also won't sell a car to my kids, or parents unless they add the warranty.
That's because you sell GM cars ... When you buy Honda or Toyota you don't need the warranty.  
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For the most part the extended warranty is NOT worth it.
This part I have to disagree with 100 percent. Heck I sell the warranty, and I won't buy a car for myself WITHOUT one. I also won't sell a car to my kids, or parents unless they add the warranty.
1,000+ bucks for something that you most likely won't even use. I say its a waste. One day I may be wrong in that instance, however over time I'll be ahead easily. Even at 500 its a waste...
#gmstrong
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This part I have to disagree with 100 percent. Heck I sell the warranty, and I won't buy a car for myself WITHOUT one. I also won't sell a car to my kids, or parents unless they add the warranty.
That's because you sell GM cars ... When you buy Honda or Toyota you don't need the warranty.
The bad thing about Hondas is when something goes wrong it's gonna cost you. They have been real good about finding problems and adapting though vs the american cars. I got the extended warrenty b/c EVERTHING is covered (minus brake pads and filters) till 180,000 miles. Plus if I ever go to resell it's a good thing to have. I added the cost to my loan thru Honda and that was that. At first I thought "No, I baby my cars so I won't need it. They gave me a great price and if I decide to sell it looks good so I said screw it. If some freak thing happens I am covered and thats always good.
My 92 Accord is still running at 187,000 miles and my brother is driving it now, but I did have to put some cash into getting the timing down, axle shafts, ect. That was the most major repairs I ever had to put into that car and that stuff started around 150k or so.
I think there worth it if you have had the car for a while and by then your really don't want to sink cash into fixing stuff.
Our honor defend, we will fight to the end, for OHIO! GO BUCKS!
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Thanks GM.
Couple more questions...
So its better if you currently have payments on a car? The reason I didn't have to worry about it before was because I had a company car for a while. My current Grand Cherokee was bought about 4 years ago (2002) and I just finished paying it off in December. Its got 122,000 miles on it - I may get a new car in the Summer (a low mile used car, or consider new if 0% financing).
If I put down another $4000 over tax, title, etc, is Gap necessary? It seems like it may be only insurance if something happens (accident, stolen) within the first 6-12 months. Then your regular insurance should be sufficient (at least I'd hope).
How is that Gap rate figured as well - a function of the sales price? Is it a lump payment added onto the cost to drive it off the lot? Can it be spread out over the loan of the vehicle, making the monthly cost very minimal?
Thanks again in advance....
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Dealers generally make a profit even below invoice on a car. It's hard to get below that though because they're very reluctant to give up any of their holdback.
Over the years, I've fought tooth and nail for the "best price" then came to a very simple realization:
All the long hours of fighting and haggling......going back and forth over the phone after walking away from the dealership........sending emails and waiting for the right time and the right salesman.........I finally came to a working conclusion that made it the easiest on me. I use the net to find out how much the holdback is, call around to all the dealerships that have approx. the vehicle I want, call the fleet manager, and ask if he's willing to split the holdback.
That's it.
My experience has been that fleet managers aren't interested in haggling like a floor salesman is. The one's I've known get paid no matter what, so they just want to sell a car without any hassles. Sooner or later, you can find a dealership that's willing to split the holdback. It just takes time from your house and the phone.
In the end, is it worth the long hours of stress and haggling over that last couple of hundred bucks? Not to me it wasn't.
Step A) Find EXACTLY what vehicle you want (the net is best, but sometimes you have to physically go see cars to get an idea)
Step B) Use the net to find the holdback on that vehicle
Step C) Use the net to find the fleet manager at all the dealerships within driving distance, call'em, and ask that one simple question: Are you willing to split the holdback?
Excel had the right idea about a loan if that's how you have to go. Get the rates from local banks and institutions first.
Also, maybe it's been mentioned, but agree on the price SEPERATELY before you discuss payments, interest options, lengths of deal, etc etc. Get the bottom line price of the vehicle, THEN work out the terms. The best option is to walk in with a check from another bank or institution.
Then there's all the ad-ons, hehe. Unless you really want something, don't go for'em.
I've only purchased about 10 cars new in my 36 years, but the above is the least painful with the best results.
Here's a little story: I had an '03 Cobra set up for the track. It ran 11's in the quarter mile. I wanted to sell it because I needed a truck. I worked a deal with a local Dodge dealership for a leathered-out Quad Cab Ram. The guy who bought my '03 Cobra came down from Oklahoma. Turns out he owned several GM dealerships in the state. We did a deal called a "pass through" which allowed me to not have to pay some tax on my vehicle. He owned the salespeople at the dealership up one side and down the other, but only because they were being asses, hehehe. So when the deal was done, I showed him what I paid. I basically split the holdback with the dealership. That was it. No hassles, no fuss. He looked my deal over, turned to me and said: "They didn't get over on you at all. Good deal, dude."
You can probably fight for that last hundred bucks, but is it really worth it? Only if you're more interested in keeping score than getting a vehcile.
***Gordon, I really didn't think you could be this stOOpid, but you exceeded my expectations. Wussy.
Manziel, see Josh Gordon. Dumbass.***
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Agreed. Give me the car around invoice and I'm happy. Holdback generally gives the dealer 3% which is fair imo. I've bought two new cars in my life and received both at invoice with 0% loans. I can't complain about either experience. Getting my wife's car I went to a couple places I didn't really care for and simply walked out rather quickly.
#gmstrong
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Agreed. Give me the car around invoice and I'm happy. Holdback generally gives the dealer 3% which is fair imo. I've bought two new cars in my life and received both at invoice with 0% loans. I can't complain about either experience. Getting my wife's car I went to a couple places I didn't really care for and simply walked out rather quickly.
Absoutely a good deal for you, but a dealership can't stay open selling cars at invoice and trying to survive on holdback. If they are trying to survive on holdback - that's where you get the shady deals......i.e. jacking up interest rates, adding extended warranties, paint protection, rust proofing....etc etc.
Dealerships cannot survive on "holdback" deals. They just can't. My guess is, when you bought your cars at invoice, there was probably dealer cash available to the dealer you didn't know about.
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Agreed. Give me the car around invoice and I'm happy. Holdback generally gives the dealer 3% which is fair imo. I've bought two new cars in my life and received both at invoice with 0% loans. I can't complain about either experience. Getting my wife's car I went to a couple places I didn't really care for and simply walked out rather quickly.
Also, if 3% is fair, in your opinion..........let's break it down. Let's use a $30,000 car. Holdback is $900. Sales person will get a "mini" commission of roughly $125. That leaves $775 for the dealership. Now, just the floorplan on that car...........well, do the math.....$28000 borrowed at 5%......That's close to $120 per month....now we have the 775 less 120 (for 1 months worth of having the car sit there), so we're at $655. Add in the office staff's income, .....man, you sure don't want your dealership making a profit, do you?
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Not off of me  I buy mine at the end of the model year. I expect to get it around invoice... I don't even need a dealership really. Set up a shop with one of each model. Person comes in, test drives, orders the features they want and comes and picks it up within a week. Of course that will never happen because the dealership loses the impulse buyer. Of course then they wouldn't need a lot of the extras either...
#gmstrong
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Nice, in theory. In reality, no chance. Why? Because you may have one of each in stock, but you cannot, and will not, get what the customer wants in one week if they order from the factory. Pretty cut and dried there. Can't happen.
Plus, if you're doing that, and I'm the big guy down the street with what your customer wants sitting on my lot..........you lose out. The customer has the choice of ordering from you and waiting 6 weeks, or buying from me today, possibly tomorrow........even if I'm 2 or 3 hundred higher.
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I REALLY recommend doing some CARFAX lookup. This has been one crucial element of two deals. Regardless of their prices, what will you pay. I have financed numerous loans, all thru my credit union. Be willing to walk. I will dicker shamelessly; they are willing to badger me stupidly, so I will let them know where I am at as well. We usually buy used, newer, several times with warranty left. I just refuse new. I will not lease tho they love it. I make my best deal on what I want. After the new ride is settled, I decide to sell my vehicle on my own or donate it to charity, or work a separate deal for it. Remember: A trade in is worth whatever you agree it is worth. I usually have a blue book with me, and I do about a week's worth of legwork at4 lots minimum. And I do walk if I feel jerked around. Good luck.
"Every responsibility implies opportunity, and every opportunity implies responsibility." Otis Allen Glazebrook, 1880
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For the most part the extended warranty is NOT worth it.
This part I have to disagree with 100 percent. Heck I sell the warranty, and I won't buy a car for myself WITHOUT one. I also won't sell a car to my kids, or parents unless they add the warranty.
1,000+ bucks for something that you most likely won't even use. I say its a waste. One day I may be wrong in that instance, however over time I'll be ahead easily. Even at 500 its a waste...
People use warranty's at work every day, so I know for a fact they are not a waste of money. I see the number of times they are used, and I see the amount of the repair bills. I never bought the warranty's myself until I got into the car business and saw facts first hand.
I AM ALWAYS RIGHT... except when I am wrong.
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This part I have to disagree with 100 percent. Heck I sell the warranty, and I won't buy a car for myself WITHOUT one. I also won't sell a car to my kids, or parents unless they add the warranty.
That's because you sell GM cars ... When you buy Honda or Toyota you don't need the warranty.
Pure myth Excl. You see our owner also owns five other dealership, one of them being a Honda Dealership. There service department is just as busy as ours.
I AM ALWAYS RIGHT... except when I am wrong.
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If I put down another $4000 over tax, title, etc, is Gap necessary? It seems like it may be only insurance if something happens (accident, stolen) within the first 6-12 months. Then your regular insurance should be sufficient (at least I'd hope).
If your putting 4,000 down plus tax and Title and going 48 to 60 months on the financing, then IMO you don't need the GAP. If your financing for 72 months or longer, then I would still advice you to get it.
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How is that Gap rate figured as well - a function of the sales price? Is it a lump payment added onto the cost to drive it off the lot? Can it be spread out over the loan of the vehicle, making the monthly cost very minimal?
The cost is not based on the amount financed. It's based on the finance Term. It's a set $ amount for up to a 48 month loan. 49 to 60 months, 61 to 66 months, 67 to 72 months, and 73 months or longer.
I AM ALWAYS RIGHT... except when I am wrong.
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The best option is to walk in with a check from another bank or institution.
Not true Toad. You see the Dealership makes money from the bank for doing the finance paperwork. Dealerships are more likely to take a short deal on the front end, if they know they can make a few bucks on the backend, and that same local bank you went to could have still been used, with the dealership doing the paperwork for you (saving you time)
I AM ALWAYS RIGHT... except when I am wrong.
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Remember: A trade in is worth whatever you agree it is worth.
A Trade is worth what the dealer can get for it at the auction (minus any money he has to spend on it in repairs, and auction fees) Not what a little Blue Book says it is.
I AM ALWAYS RIGHT... except when I am wrong.
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That's why I said it wouldn't work
#gmstrong
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People use warranty's at work every day, so I know for a fact they are not a waste of money. I see the number of times they are used, and I see the amount of the repair bills. I never bought the warranty's myself until I got into the car business and saw facts first hand.
Use it once and you MIGHT break even. Most people finance them so that 1200 dollar bill becomes more like a 15 or 1600 before they're done paying for it. If you have a car with that much trouble in the first 60, 70, 100k I would be dumping much faster than I would be willing to repair because you would have what I consider a POS car. No car in this day and age should have that many problems outside of the factory warranty. Now I would consider the one that 337 got that goes to 180k or whatever, depending on the cost. That makes much more sense to me. Most of the time you get out of the extended warranty before you ever get a chance to use it, and if you do use it, it costs less than the warranty itself.
#gmstrong
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People use warranty's at work every day, so I know for a fact they are not a waste of money. I see the number of times they are used, and I see the amount of the repair bills. I never bought the warranty's myself until I got into the car business and saw facts first hand.
Use it once and you MIGHT break even. Most people finance them so that 1200 dollar bill becomes more like a 15 or 1600 before they're done paying for it. If you have a car with that much trouble in the first 60, 70, 100k I would be dumping much faster than I would be willing to repair because you would have what I consider a POS car. No car in this day and age should have that many problems outside of the factory warranty. Now I would consider the one that 337 got that goes to 180k or whatever, depending on the cost. That makes much more sense to me. Most of the time you get out of the extended warranty before you ever get a chance to use it, and if you do use it, it costs less than the warranty itself.
if they can't afford the $1,000 repair, how do expect them to dump the car and get something new.
The warranty really helps someone who lives week to week, and really can't afford repairs. If you've got 1-2 grand sitting around for emergencies, then your probably fine without the extended warranty.
warranties are just like insurance, your gambling money that you will need a major repair, they are gambling that you won't.
We don't have to agree with each other, to respect each others opinion.
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1,000+ bucks for something that you most likely won't even use. I say its a waste. One day I may be wrong in that instance, however over time I'll be ahead easily. Even at 500 its a waste...
Well, like I said, not that I trust anyone at Serpentini, but the Trail Blazer we bought has one of those touchscreens in the dash.. it is for the radio (XM and Standard AM/FM and CD player) it also runs the GPS system.
Now, in doing some home work, those screens have only been used for a couple of years.. meaning that there is no long term track record for how they hold up. Meaning that replacement and repair may need done at some point in the near term,,
Cost of the new screen is around $2,000.00, installation is about 200.00.. Total out the door cost is around $2,200.00 or so. The cost of the extended warrenty for that car was 1600.00. And I'm paying for it with tomorrow's dollars.... and it DOES cover that screen!
To me, it was worth while..
#GMSTRONG
“Everyone is entitled to his own opinion, but not to his own facts.”
Daniel Patrick Moynahan
"Alternative facts hurt us all. Think before you blindly believe."
Damanshot
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I bought a warramty when I bought my convertable. Of course, I didn;t buy it where I nought the car ..... because my old boss sold it to me for $50 over cost ..... so I wound up with a 2 year comprehensive warranty for right around $500. I've used it 3 times .... and am about $20 ahead. I do still have another month or so to come up with serious problems that need paid for my the warranty company though. 
Micah 6:8; He has shown you, O mortal, what is good. And what does the Lord require of you? To act justly and to love mercy, and to walk humbly with your God.
John 14:19 Jesus said: Because I live, you also will live.
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I buy one usually, just to err on the cautious side. I bought a new '99 Dodge Durango (biggest mistake of my life) about 3 years in, the thermostat locked up, caused overheating. Thanks to the warranty, they not only towed it, fixed it, but also supplied me with a courtesy car for the day. 2 weeks later, I blew a freeze plug, and a ball joint cracked. a year later the rear axle bearings went out, followed shortly by a power window motor going out. That's why I said it was the biggest mistake of my life, I've had 6 Fords, only 2 purchased new, and all combined have had less problems than this 1 Durango.  Anyway, all totaled I came to about 4k worth of repairs, parts and rentals. ALL was covered under the extended warranty thankfully. Because at the time, I didn't have the money to replace the vehicle, or pay for the repairs without using a CC. I got the warranty on my Mustang, a mistake on my part, because I knew I would modify it and void the warranty anyway, but I did it. I canceled the warrant about 6 months ago and got a $600 refund.
We don't have to agree with each other, to respect each others opinion.
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If you have a car with that much trouble in the first 60, 70, 100k I would be dumping much faster than I would be willing to repair because you would have what I consider a POS car. No car in this day and age should have that many problems outside of the factory warranty.
Cars are man made, and are not perfect. Now think about this. There are around 15,000 parts on a car, if 99.9 percent of them have no problems over a six year 100,000 mile period, then that still leaves .1 percent that would break. Thats 15 parts. It could be a 2 dollar part that breaks, or it could be a 1,000 part that breaks. Sometimes it's a $10 part that takes takes four hours to repair.
Like I said IMO they are worth the money spent on them. If I thought they were a waste I wouldn't be buying them myself.
I AM ALWAYS RIGHT... except when I am wrong.
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BTW Jules Asprin cost .02 and are Marked up to 10 bucks. A New car that costs 17,000 is Marked up to 18,000 and then discounted to 17,200 or 17,300.
Talk about Greed and Profit 
You think hospitals today are making big profits? You are the one who need this:
Like I said, talk to the lawyers, insurance companies, and the government about the mark ups.  The hospitals aren't the ones seeing the money.
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Most people finance them so that 1200 dollar bill becomes more like a 15 or 1600 before they're done paying for it.
That 1200 would be 1459.80 if financed for five years at 8 percent.
I AM ALWAYS RIGHT... except when I am wrong.
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hehe... so my 1500 was pretty on the mark Not bad for a guestimate.
#gmstrong
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The best option is to walk in with a check from another bank or institution.
Not true Toad. You see the Dealership makes money from the bank for doing the finance paperwork. Dealerships are more likely to take a short deal on the front end, if they know they can make a few bucks on the backend, and that same local bank you went to could have still been used, with the dealership doing the paperwork for you (saving you time)
While I didn't know that, I also didn't word that correctly, as I'm talking about something a little different.
How I should have said it probably goes something like this:
If you've not purchased a new car before, it's much more simple to have a check in hand (akin to "paying cash") so that you don't get confused (or hornswaggled *L*) by a dealership who can make more money by playing the shell-game with the numbers.
Walking in under the presumption that you're paying cash simplifies the equation, so all the buyer has to do is worry about the final price. That's what I meant by the "best option." In the authors case here, he'd get killed by a salesman and the finance manager when it comes to interest rates and payments. Paying cash, as it were, eliminates many of those headaches, so IMHO that's the best option.
On a side note, I always laugh at the debate between crooked car salesmen and crooked buyers. The truth? They are BOTH crooked far more than they'd be in any other aspect of life because of one simple thing: THE RULES OF THE GAME
It's the salesman's job to get the most money out of a person for the merchandise they are selling, and it's the buyers job to pay the least. Because of the nature of the game, the situation is going to cause people to act far more shady than they would in any other circumstance. Instead of getting angry and upset, keep calm, cool, collected, keep your head about you, and choose to accept the deal that the dealership is offering, or don't.
I've ran across an equal number of scumbags at dealerships as I have straight shooters. The very first time I'm lied to, I tell that person he's no longer getting my business, and I either move to a new salesperson or to a new dealership. It's nothing personal. It's business. Eventually, you'll find a straight shooter and can work a deal from there. If not, there are other salespeople and other dealerships.
***Gordon, I really didn't think you could be this stOOpid, but you exceeded my expectations. Wussy.
Manziel, see Josh Gordon. Dumbass.***
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hehe... so my 1500 was pretty on the mark Not bad for a guestimate.
Real close 
I AM ALWAYS RIGHT... except when I am wrong.
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I agree that way to many Salesmen make it way harder than it has to be. I prefer to lay out the price and agree on it, then lay out the trade and agree on it. Then talk financing. It's not rocket science Keep It Simple Stupid The kiss method works well for us dumb guys I
I AM ALWAYS RIGHT... except when I am wrong.
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ummm... i need a favor guys...
anyone have unlimited carfax reports so i can look up a particular Vin?
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I drove a couple of hundred miles today to buy a car from GM......and I was very pleased. Good seeing you again bud. Thanks again!
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It was great seeing you again Shep. I wish we would have had some time to BS, but those other people at the dealership think I should WORK while I am there
I AM ALWAYS RIGHT... except when I am wrong.
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Yeah! gm's da man! WOOT! 
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It was great seeing you again Shep. I wish we would have had some time to BS, but those other people at the dealership think I should WORK while I am there
Don't you hate that, like who do they think they are?
We don't have to agree with each other, to respect each others opinion.
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Steeler fans 
I AM ALWAYS RIGHT... except when I am wrong.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11,850 |
Just pulled my 2005 Ford F-150 XLT in the driveway... I'm so happy.. and I really didn't have to play too many games with the salesman. I actually had a GREAT experience, and got the vehicle at an EXCELLENT price.
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,202
Hall of Famer
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Hall of Famer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,202 |
congratulations..
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11,850
Legend
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Legend
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11,850 |
thanks!!
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,728
Hall of Famer
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Hall of Famer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,728 |
Sweet! I love my F-150 too. Not on gas day but every other day!
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 27,367
Legend
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Legend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 27,367 |
Quote:
I really didn't have to play too many games with the salesman. I actually had a GREAT experience, and got the vehicle at an EXCELLENT price.
See not all dealerships are donkey's
I AM ALWAYS RIGHT... except when I am wrong.
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DawgTalkers.net
Forums DawgTalk Tailgate Forum Any Car Salesmen on the board?
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