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Here is what you do, this is what I did when I bought my car. You do all your research on the Web on the cars you want. This way you go in informed about what you want and how much it will cost.

You then have a dollar about you are comfortable with paying, tell them that and don't budge. It works for new or used.

I bought a used Trailblazer (love it by the way) it was in great shape with about 30,000 miles on it, the book was like 23-24000. I told the dealership I am not paying more the 300 a month so make it work or I am walking. They did the whole "I need to talk to my sales manager" thing. I made go get and bring his sales manager out. I told him the same thing.

We went back and forth and my car payment is a little over 300 a month. Bottom line, you have to stick to your guns and not budge and be comfortable with your monthly payment.

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Tomorrow will be test driving different cars/SUVs only. I'm not taking my current car that I want to trade in, nor my checkbook (I can always go back on Sunday ) I want a few days to think everything through - try not to get swept up in the excitement of having to get a new car today.

Hopefully some of the dealers will at least give me some feedback on how much off sticker price they will go. I plan to look at Hyundai, Saturn, Toyota and Honda.

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Replacing the timing on those motors means they will last another 100k. But, please don't say your Civic is rice,,please!


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LOL, I certainly hope not!!! I don't like words that start with V anymore. Wait!




LOL, and you THINK Verizon lies.... get with a car dealership.lol


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Quote:

Here is what you do, this is what I did when I bought my car. You do all your research on the Web on the cars you want. This way you go in informed about what you want and how much it will cost.

You then have a dollar about you are comfortable with paying, tell them that and don't budge. It works for new or used.

I bought a used Trailblazer (love it by the way) it was in great shape with about 30,000 miles on it, the book was like 23-24000. I told the dealership I am not paying more the 300 a month so make it work or I am walking. They did the whole "I need to talk to my sales manager" thing. I made go get and bring his sales manager out. I told him the same thing.

We went back and forth and my car payment is a little over 300 a month. Bottom line, you have to stick to your guns and not budge and be comfortable with your monthly payment.




Don't go by the payment amount - that means nothing. What year, how long did you finance, how much did you put down, what's the interest rate - those affect the payment - not saying "I can spend $300 a month" - without the other info, you don't know if you got a fair deal or hosed in a big way.....now, I'm sure you know those things - but telling someone to go to a dealership and and say "I can't spend over $X per month" is not the way to get a good deal.

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From what I've learned so far, you shouldn't talk about what you can afford for a monthly payment, trade-ins, or financing until AFTER you come to a deal on the price of the car

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From what I've learned so far, you shouldn't talk about what you can afford for a monthly payment, trade-ins, or financing until AFTER you come to a deal on the price of the car




Pretty much, but since you do have a trade in, they can't give you numbers til they see it. What most people don't get is, a trade in has a "cash value" (that's not what they SHOW you for your trade, that's what it goes in their books at) - a new car has a "selling price", if you will, but it also has a sticker price - MSRP.

Now, let's say you're looking at a $30,000 new car - sticker, that is. With no trade, the dealership will sell it for $28,500.

Now, if you have a trade in, the dealership wants to start at sticker on the new car. Why? Cause they have an extra 1500 to "show" you added to the cash value of your car - cash value is 7000, add in the "blue sky" "room" they have on the new car (1500), and bam - they show you 8500........everyone is happy.

However, lets say you don't tell them you have a trade, they go to 28500 on the new car, then you tell them you do have a trade - they check it out - and tell you 7000 - you get mad and say "kelly blue book lists it at 8500 - no deal".

Take 30000 and subtract 8500 =21500..........28500-7000=21500.....same price....however, in the first scenario, you feel "better" about your trade in, in the second scenario - you think the dealership is screwing you on the trade value.

Does that make sense?

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HEres some good advice on a new car. DONT WRECK IT


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It's always fun explaining ACV


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That's why I've ALWAYS got a set price for the vehicle BEFORE showing my trade in!

They'll TELL you they're "giving you 2 grand" for your trade in. BUT,if you get a good,rock bottom price for the vehicle your purchasing first? Come to find out at that juncture? They'll only give you 800 hundred!

My dad proved that point to my uncle when I was in my early teens. My uncle came in bragging how he got a 2200 hundred dollar trade in out of his pick-up truck. My dad got them to put an offer in writing from the dealership offering to sale him the same truck for 1700. My uncle was pissed and my dad was laughing his ass off.



Yeah,my dad was a smart ass too!



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I prefer to give the customer ACV so they can either trade it in or sell it themselves. But some people just don't get it


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You're the type of guy I would buy a vehicle from. I bought three vehicles from the same salesman at the same dealership. He has retired.

But he was the most STRAIGHT UP salesman I've ever had the pleasure of doing business with. He didn't beat around the bush. (no pun intended) Used ACV,told me the facts wheather I liked it or not. We would usually conduct our transactions within a couple of hours and that includes all of the paperwork!

Needless to say,I was sorry to see him retire.


Intoducing for The Cleveland Browns, Quarterback Deshawn "The Predator" Watson. He will also be the one to choose your next head coach.

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I prefer to give the customer ACV so they can either trade it in or sell it themselves. But some people just don't get it




I think it's about impossible to explain ACV to a customer........

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I know the feeling oh so well. I have heard "BUT they gave me more money for my trade in" so often I can't help but laugh


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Go work for Honda so I can buy my next thru you.

So GM, do you get into the financing part at all? I was wondering if it was possible to add some accessories onto the loan,,if that was possible or would I need to refinance?


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Well, I did test driving today and resisted the urge to buy one today. But tomorrow is a different story.

I first drove a Toyota Rav-4 (4 cyl.) and HATED it. I then drove a Hyundai Santa Fe, Tucson and 6 cyl. Sonata. Santa Fe drove very nice as did the Sonata. Then it was on to Honda. LOVED both the CR-V and 6 cyl. Honda Accord.

I'm gonna go back to Honda tomorrow with my trade-in cars and see if we can work something out. Leaning towards the CR-V I guess. Was surprised how much better that 4 cyl. performed than the 4 cyl. Rav-4 .

Anyone have a Honda CR-V?

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Go work for Honda so I can buy my next thru you.

So GM, do you get into the financing part at all? I was wondering if it was possible to add some accessories onto the loan,,if that was possible or would I need to refinance?




Once you have the loan in place you can't change it. You would need to refinance it.


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Replacing the timing on those motors means they will last another 100k. But, please don't say your Civic is rice,,please!





oh I''ve got tons of stuff on it... I love it!

It's not rice tho that's 4 sho


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Good man!

I haven't started anything with mine yet except tint. Gonna get the intake, short shifter, HFP gunmetal wheels, and some fogs this summer to start.


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One thing to remember is that since you have financing through your bank already.... the dealer just lost every dime of the back end profit. Meaning, just the sales person makes money, not the dude who will have you sign all the papers. So, perhaps leave that part out as long as you can.

Good luck




You could tell them you can get bank financing, just leave out the part where you did get the bank financing. Negotiate the price, and sign a check, not their paperwork.


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just leave out the part where you did get the bank financing




You can't. The dealership still has to know WHERE you did the financing. The Banks name and address, since they need that info to do the title work.


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