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I've searched around Google for some ideas but haven't found many, so I figured I give it a shot here before I have it towed into the dealer.
I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla S and one day it just stalled. It started up but stalled right away. I had it towed to a mechanic friend and he said the fuel pump isn't getting power but the pump is good, the relay is good, and the fuses are good. He's stumped and doesn't know much about newer cars so he said to have it towed somewhere else and have them scan it for codes. Any ideas before I do that?
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My question is ...did he take the pump out and test it? How did he check the pump?....Next is it geting fire?
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How did he test that the pump was good? I'm assuming some sort of volt meter was used to determine if power was not present.
When you say "relay" do you mean the fuel shutoff momentum switch? There is a button somewhere in the car to reset it; should be in the owners manual where it is located. Sometimes in the trunk under the liner, sometimes in the passenger compartment by the drivers seat, sometimes under the hood. It will likely be a red pushbutton.
#gmstrong
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Quote:
My question is ...did he take the pump out and test it? How did he check the pump?....Next is it geting fire?
Yes, he took it out and tested it.
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Quote:
Quote:
My question is ...did he take the pump out and test it? How did he check the pump?....Next is it geting fire?
Yes, he took it out and tested it.
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Bengal
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You can get one of those code testers at Auto Zone. Some places rent them out, or do a diagnostic for you... but you'd have to have the car there. Hmm. I think on older cars, you can use a paper clip, and the code will flash, and if you call them, they will tell you what the codes mean. I'm pretty sure that's just on 91 and older, but I'm not 100% sure.
I would do anything to avoid a dealer. Ask your friend if he knows any other independent shops.
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Quote:
When you say "relay" do you mean the fuel shutoff momentum switch? There is a button somewhere in the car to reset it; should be in the owners manual where it is located. Sometimes in the trunk under the liner, sometimes in the passenger compartment by the drivers seat, sometimes under the hood. It will likely be a red pushbutton.
Someone else told me about this but I couldn't find it in the manual or the book at Autozone. I'll look around for it when I get off work.
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Quote:
You can get one of those code testers at Auto Zone.
Dang I was just there on my lunch break and couldn't find them so I left. I was going to ask somebody but they were super busy. Maybe I will call and see. I think the dealer wants like $70 to do it.
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Bengal
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When we had to get one in Columbus, I think they were behind the counter, but they were about $150! It's worth a phone call anyway, it maybe cheaper to go to the dealer. 150 bones would be worth it if you have a shop!  Ask about the paper clip thing too, it may just be older cars, but it's worth a shot! Good luck!
Birds of War
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Just another thought - isn't the car still under warranty? Or did you exceed the mileage limit already?
#gmstrong
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I have done the paper clip way then you just read the blinks and look it up in your code book. Ford you need a scaner and I believe honda also but not posative on that.
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Bengal
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I did it on an old Lumina... didn't have a book, I had to call. I don't know the first thing about Ford's, never owned one. 
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I was afraid the scanner would be expensive.
I'm not sure about the warranty. How does that work if I'm the second owner of the car? Do I get the balance of the original manufacturer's warrant? I wonder if it was three or five years. I don't think the mileage would be a problem.
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You should be able to call a dealer and give them the vin. number and they can tell you.
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I never buy new cars, and every used one that I've purchased the warranty is transferable. Even if it is a 3 year, it should still be under warranty, as I would think the earliest you would get an '05 model would be mid '04. The build date is normally somewhere on the drivers side door jamb. Someone else already said it, but call a Toyota dealer and give them the VIN - they can tell you if it's still under warranty.
I usually buy a year or two old with low mileage; I can't stand the loss that is taken on new cars instantly.
#gmstrong
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I usually buy a year or two old with low mileage; I can't stand the loss that is taken on new cars instantly.
I can't either, I take the same strategy and buy a car a couple of years old. I'll get the VIN and call the local Toyota dealer to see if it's under warranty.
Thanks everybody for the info so far.
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1st String
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Even if it isn't under warranty, spring for the $70 to find out exactly what is wrong with it.
If you think professionals are expensive, wait until you see what amatuers will cost you.
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Legend
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Fuel pump reset switch is usually in the trunk, sometimes behind the soft liners.
Another thing to consider is a timing belt tensioner may be loose.
We don't have to agree with each other, to respect each others opinion.
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Legend
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Quote:
Even if it is a 3 year, it should still be under warranty, as I would think the earliest you would get an '05 model would be mid '04. The build date is normally somewhere on the drivers side door jamb. Someone else already said it, but call a Toyota dealer and give them the VIN - they can tell you if it's still under warranty.
The build date doesn't matter, as the warranty starts on the date of original purchase - if the car is under the mileage limit, it's under warranty - take it to a dealer!!!! (heck, even if it's a few thousand over, take it to a dealer - they can still warranty it).
You've already paid one guy to look at it, and he basically said "golly, I don't know", why take it to another shop where they may do the same thing? Take it to a dealer, have it fixed right and in one stop, as opposed to towing it all over looking for a cheap fix. Again, unless you're over on mileage, it will probably be under warranty, and it costs you nothing.
You can call a dealer, give them the vin, and they will tell you if it is under warranty.
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1st String
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Quote:
...Another thing to consider is a timing belt tensioner may be loose.
If they had the pump physically removed and checked, and that wasn't checked first, then that person needs to be admonished, or beaten with a club.
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Well I'm going now to go look for the switch in the trunk. If I don't have any luck, I'll tow it to the dealer. I'll let you guys know what happens. Thanks for all of the advice.
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Legend
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Have you tried a really, really, really big hammer? Even if it doesn't correct the issue, it's bound to make you feel much better about things 
Browns is the Browns
... there goes Joe Thomas, the best there ever was in this game.
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Bengal
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HEY!!! Have you been spying on my trying to fix the lawn mower?
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Probably a problem is the wiring harness leading to it. They tend to get a lot of corrosion due to being under the car. Probably a corroded connector.
KING
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Have you tried a really, really, really big hammer?
Even if it doesn't correct the issue, it's bound to make you feel much better about things
Or even duct tape. Duct tape fixes everything
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Or even duct tape. Duct tape fixes everything
LOL! Mcgeiver * spelling* 
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Practice Squad
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"" I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla S and one day it just stalled. ""
Wow, a Toyota stalled? I thought that just happened to those junk American cars like Fords and Chevys; doesn't happen to foreign cars.......
Hey, I'm not pickin on you ---- hope you find the problem and it doesn't cost you an arm and a leg.
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Dawg Talker
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The fuel pump is fine but isn't getting power but the fuses and the relay's are fine.
That's odd. If I didn't read that I would have said that either your cam sensor is bad, your fuel filter needs changed, Your injectors need cleaned or your relay is bad.
But if it's just not getting power then something has got to be going on with the wiring from up front to the tank.
I'm not totally sure but it might have an inline fuse. If you can find that get a test light and test before and after the fuse.
If that's not it or you don't have one someone is gong to have to put it on the scanner. Better to spend money and fix the real problem then spend alot more money and replace stuff you "think" could be wrong with it.
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I'm just amazed that the first thing he did wasn't to take it to a dealer where it is most likely still under warranty...
#gmstrong
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Legend
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Quote:
I'm just amazed that the first thing he did wasn't to take it to a dealer where it is most likely still under warranty...
Amen!!! Are dealers rates a little higher? Sure. But they can fix the thing. How many places are you going to tow it where they say "ummm, well, this ISN"T the problem, but the problem is somewhere around here - I just can't find it". Then you say "thanks" and pay to tow it somewhere else?
On top of that, it's probably still under warranty. Had it been taken to a dealer the first time, the car would be fixed, properly, and running right now.
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Dawg Talker
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Well yeah that would be my first thought.
But I am just assuming that because he didn't it's not under warranty.
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My old Accord did that once. It stalled at the end of a freeway ramp and stalled n wouldn't start.
In my case it was the ignition coil. Firestone was right there and they tried to rip me off.
Our honor defend, we will fight to the end, for OHIO! GO BUCKS!
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Dawg Talker
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Quote:
Fuel pump reset switch is usually in the trunk, sometimes behind the soft liners.
Another thing to consider is a timing belt tensioner may be loose.
alright what the heck to cars need fuel pump reset switches for?
my guess is the timing belt too...my moms went on her camry at about 70 thousand miles....
catch...i wouldn't go cranking the engine too much, cause if it did slip a few notches, or if it broke you could bend a valve if its open at the wrong time....
Attitude is everything....FEAR THE ELF!!!
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All Pro
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Is your car under warranty?????
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Quote:
alright what the heck to cars need fuel pump reset switches for
For saftey. They are momentum switches that cut power to the fuel pump to stop feeding the engine gas if you are in an accident. Sometimes they get tripped inadvertently.
#gmstrong
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thanks....never heard of that....makes sense though with everything having electric fuel pumps instead of mechanical...
Attitude is everything....FEAR THE ELF!!!
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Legend
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Ahh I misread the part of the pump NOT getting power...I read it that it was.
if that's the case it's either the shutoff switch was tripped, defective, or one of the connectors is bad. Testing with an ohm meter long the line would tell you where.
We don't have to agree with each other, to respect each others opinion.
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